Grump, grump...
Ah well... I'm sure I'll learn....
Est
An informal record of the 13 months leading up to The Kili 6's attempt to climb Kilimanjaro in February 2007. In Andrew's case he just wants to do something unforgettable before his 50th birthday in May 2007, after which it will all no doubt be sadly downhill
But - be warned if you're not there yet - gravity really kicks in past 40. And that is a long way in my rear view mirror already. No matter how much sport you play, no matter how healthily you eat week in week out, no matter how much you've cut back on the lager...one little slip and - BANG! - that tyre thing has reappeared around your middle
For years I had a 32" waist. It's slipped to 34" now and, worse, I'm on the last hole of the belt after a spontaneous few pints and a curry. I can hear 36" screaming in my ear..or at least I would if my hearing wasn't fading too
Anyway, we never used to have gyms, did we? Or nutritionists, or spas, or treatments, or Pilates. Do you think Nobby Stiles and the gang did all those stretchy things, warmed up and down and laid off the chip butties in 1966. I don't think so. "Here, Jack, how many lateral pull downs did you do before the Argentina game?"
I'm having an assessment this Saturday. To measure my VO2 apparently (shampoo rating?), the BMI % (airline appraisal?) and body fat, amongst other things. I'll use it as a benchmark to see if my programme over the coming months actually does work...assuming there's a Twirl quotient built in, of course
Besides, it's comforting to hear that people who are too fit - and who suffer from the exuberance of youth - stand less chance of conquering Kili because they exert too much energy sprinting up the mountain and get poleaxed by the lack of oxygen at altitude. More about the technicalities of Acute Mountain Sickness later, but maybe, just maybe, there will be an advantage in being on the brink of 50. Pole pole - slowly slowly - is apparently the constant Swahili mantra from the guides and porters, exhorting you to conserve your dwindling resources as the air thins
We'll need a decent (extraordinary?) climbing fitness, of course, and a tip-top aerobic capacity, but otherwise it sounds like it isn't necessary to track Lance Armstrong's regime. And presumably a bit of fat reserves to energise you through that last punishing summit day will come in handy, so maybe the next 13 months might not be quite so deprived, after all....
Which outfitter (trekking company) to go with? Local in Tanzania? UK based? Savile Row?
What time of year? Avoid the rainy seasons, obviously, but the autumn climbing window...or the winter one?
Do a commando-like raid, straight in and out (and hopefully up and down) - but that's against all the advice, or do a warm up acclimatisation climb of Mount Meru or Mount Kenya first?
Just target the Kilimanjaro assault...or get distracted by add-ons like exotic Zanzibar or a thrilling safari?
I'll come back to some of these haunting dilemmas later but the most intriguing choice seemed to be....which route to take? As the wobbly stick insect diagram shows, there are quite a few trail options. And each one seems to have its pros and cons, its supporters and detractors, its risks and rewards
Many thanks to Henry Stedman, author of Trailblazer's excellent Kilimanjaro guide, for his great summary of the trails (briefly described below), both in the book and in person at the recent Daily Telegraph Adventure Travel Show (the photo is a bit fuzzy but Henry's not)
THE MARANGU ROUTE - also known a little scathingly as The Coca Cola Route, this sounded like the softest option. Unlike the others it's hut-based, rather than camping out under the African sky. But it's usually done without the benefit of an extra acclimatisation day so the chances of summitting successfully are apparently reduced a little. No thanks
THE RONGAI ROUTE - the only trail approaching the Kibo summit from the north, via Kenya. Nice and quiet, with a drier climate and away from the crowds until the final summit session. But I was a little bit unsettled by Henry's comment: because of its proximity to to Kenya this route is also prone to the occasional foray by opportunist bandits from the Kenyan side who indulge in a little light larceny, before escaping Tanzanian jurisdiction by hot-footing it back to their homeland again. Hmm...easy to see why it's not quite so popular
THE UMBWE ROUTE - sounded like very tough going: the hardest trail, a tough vertical slog through the jungle with again reduced opportunity to acclimatise properly. But quiet and offering some spectacular views, not seen on some of the more popular trails. Tempting, but probably a bit demanding for someone half of my advancing years
THE (ALAN) SHIRA PLATEAU & LEMOSHO ROUTES - the approach from the western side of the mountain, perhaps the least popular trails, mainly because of the difficulty involved in getting to the start of the them. And I read a few scary tales of the need to cross glaciers at some stage that sounded just a tad more stretching than the gentle stroll I had envisaged. And I think it was from this approach that just a few weeks ago 3 American climbers died after a major rockfall. Probably not, thanks
THE MACHAME ROUTE - a popular trail, considered one of the most enjoyable, tougher than the Marangu Route but offering better acclimatisation chances, if only because of the longer distance. Beautiful scenic paths and returning down the Mweka Route, giving you different views to savour as you hurtle back down, euphoric or deflated. Hopefully alive to experience an appropriate emotion anyway
On balance we've gone for Machame, thinking it would be quieter as it's a little longer and tougher, and the variety sounds entrancing. It was a little disappointing when Henry said last week that this is now the most popular trail, but he did confirm its beauty and reckoned that the volume of climbers soon dissipates, a bit like the fall-out from a marathon in a greenhouse. That's comforting then
A separate article will follow on the different climatic zones encountered during the climb, as well as which Outfitter we're going with and an outline of each day's trek. I'll also post some more information on sponsorship options and details of where I'm hoping that any funds raised will go to in Tanzania, thanks to World Vision
When choosing between two evils, I always like to try the one I've never tried before
(Mae West)
Age: rapidly approaching 49. Impossible.
Motivation: to conquer Kili before I hit the big 5-0 and to raise funds for World Vision projects in Tanzania (see separate posts and the link on the right hand side to sponsor me online)
Job: Foolish CFO
Health: suffering from gout, allergies, old age, fear of heights and open spaces, and a chronically bad back...otherwise in rude health
Experience: gentle strolls in the Surrey Hills and on friendly mountains in the Italian Dolomites, French Alps, Corsica, Spanish Asturias and Pyrenees, Canadian Rockies. Climbed The 3 Peaks a few years ago...but nothing to compare with Kili
Summit odds: 25-1
The missus. Gill/Gillian Morris/Mrs M
Age: a scarcely believeable 43....44 in February 2006
Motivation: not wanting to miss out; addicted to mountains
Job: owner of South Minster Kitchens, a fast-growing kitchen design company in Surrey (call 01483-424657 or email Mrs M on gill.morris@hemscott.net for a no obligation chat) end of advertisement
Health: completely recovered from a very bad horse accident in 2004...rebuilt by Pilates and The Royal Surrey Hospital. Now more like a 34 year old
Experience: as for Andrew...and she has also walked up a lot of stairs at Fitness First in Godalming
Summit odds: 2-1
Steve Morris/Neph#1/Lardy Boy (the mixologist on the right hand side with Neph#2 Dave)
Age: 21 in February 2006.
Motivation: a love of mountains, and never known to say no to any invitation
Job: telecomms salesman...duck to water
Health: recovering well from a 4 month diet of Fosters, McDonalds and 24 hour parties in Australia and New Zealand a couple of years ago
Experience: Duke of Edinburgh trekking around the UK, The 3 Peaks, epic trip to Kygrystan...and the Sydney Harbour Bridge on his 19th birthday
Summit odds: evens
Jon Wallis/Spider/Tarantula
Age: 42
Motivation: it seemed like a good idea when Andrew suggested it. And it's high time I did something more "serious" than sitting in front of a computer and watching TV. And the idea of having climbed the highest peak in a continent really appeals (although the idea of pulmonary oedema doesn't)
Job: Foolish customer service guru
Health: generally sound, except for the 12" of titanium in my left leg. And the bad back.
Experience: I've done a lot of walking in the past - Snowdonia, Lake Distict, Yorkshire Dales, etc - including quite a lot of winter stuff (Snowdon Horseshoe, Helvellyn/Striding Edge). I've been rock climbing on-and-off (but more off) since 1997 - mainly at The Roaches (Peak District), and N. Wales (Snowdonia, Tremadog), plus some indoor stuff in Bristol. I've also done one season in the Alps, based in the Täsch-Randa valley, near Zermatt, which is in the Wallis Canton of Switzerland, so it seemed appropriate!. Routes included a traverse of the Balfrin, and climbing the Weissmies. However, I'm now rather less fit - and a good deal heavier!- than I was back then (although I aim to be somewhat fitter and lighter by this time next year). At least Kili won't need crampons and an ice-axe. As you can see, Jon is a bit more experienced than the rest of us amateurs
Summit odds: 4-6
Esther / Eszt Horvath-Papp
Age: 26 by the time we climb Kili
Motivation: I am a self-declared “wuss”. I’m lazy, I get hungry and cold easily, I don’t have a very high tolerance for pain, I give things a go and if they don’t work – well what the hey, I can live without it, and I generally prefer to just curl up in bed and catch up on some sleep. So, my motivation to climb Kili is... erm... just to do something different for a change. This is going to be an incredible journey for me, both physically and mentally, especially if I manage to make it to the top. It’ll also give me an opportunity to indulge in my hobby of photography, get to know a bunch of crazy people and to experience something to tell the grandkids about
Job: wannabe solicitor
Health: my health is ok, but fitness is another matter... that is something I’m going to have to work on over the next year and a bit (join the club)
Experience: I am originally from Hungary, the highest point of which is a staggering 1014m, so let’s just say that I’m not a natural mountaineer. Of the Kili 5, I’m by far the least experienced. I do not recall a single mountain I’ve climbed in my life, and I’ve never done more than a day’s walking. I hope to get at least some hill-walking practice in before we go.
Apparently beginners tend to do well on Kili because they take things slowly, so let’s just hope that that will apply to me
Summit odds: a racing certainty